Going Gatsby

Going Gatsby!

With all that has been going on this summer I missed the opportunity of getting to the cinema to see Baz Luhrmann's adaptation of Gatsby. I am a fan of his work and have always been captivated by the attention to detail of the costuming of his films so was very excited to see the execution of this classic. Upon boarding the plane to China I realised Gatsby was on the entertainment bill so I ordered a g & t and was a very happy girl! 

The oppopulace of the evening attire of both the women and men was incredible. The black tie outfits reassured my life long obsession with the dinner suit (or tuxedo depending which part of the world you are from!)

But it was the day wear of the gentlemen of the plot that stole the show for me. In the heat of the summer what would the well to do have worn, an array of linen and cottons graced my little aeroplane screen. 

The pink suit.

There is no way of avoiding this suit when referring to this movie, it is key to 

the plot and the character of Gatsby. Many mainstream companies have produced lines this season with the 20s styling and Brooks Brothers have created an impressive ready to wear version. Now I don't know many men who can pull off an entire pink 3 piece suit but a pink sports jacket is both bold an elegant. I have been looking at the Irish linens of W Bill as inspiration or a patterned Dorsilk from Dormeiul and Scabal always provide some beautiful lightweight options.

Having absorbed the cinematic beauty of this film and doodling ideas on the napkins that accompanied my gin I am already scrolling through my mental address book of clients who would love this look. 

Imagine my delight when arriving at our hotel to find we are staying at the infamous Jin 

Jiang hotel, a historic Art Deco haven. With its exquisite ballroom and classic elegant European style I felt like donning a flapper dress and headband! 

The roaring 20s were prolific in Shanghai, with wealth and women and western influence. The echoes of the excess and riches still ring through this cosmopolitan city with it's designer stores on every street corner and love of luxury. The heat and the humidity have me thinking of Fitzgerald's great work as I sit here watching the nets billow in the breeze wondering what this city of sin may have in store for us. 

Philippa Coates

A little bit about me....

I joined Savile Row in 2002 having just completed a degree and thinking I knew everything! My degree was in Threatrical Costume Production so I had spent three years making everything from period dresses (including corsets and bustles) to trilbys a and 7 fold ties.
Arriving at Savile Row and realising that these old established companies weren't begging this 21 year old girl to work for them was no surprise, but realising I would have to start at the very bottom was.
I worked for free sewing on buttons doing alterations, running errands in the rain making tea, anything I could to enable me to spend some time with the illustrious coat makers. Being self employed the last thing these masters want to do is have someone hanging off the end of their board watching them all day. But by doing odd jobs I started being able to pad collars and canvases and became useful resulting in me producing bastes for fittings at No1 Savile Row Gieves and Hawkes.

It was at Gieves and Hawkes I was given the opportunity to work in the cutting room, trimming jobs and trotting errands at first but finally I managed to secure a job as an undercutter to Kathryn Sargent. I worked at Gieves and Hawkes for 3 years before moving onto H Huntsman and Sons for 5 years working under the Head Cutter Mr Patrick Murphy after that I then became Head Cutter at Cad and the Dandy a young company that moved onto Savile Row this year and needed my experience to start a truly bespoke department.



It was in August 2013 when things all changed, I married my Savile Row tailor boyfriend and we moved to Shanghai! Peter Coates was a Master tailor currently making bespoke coats and was offered a role with Alfred Dunhill in China. We decided to make the move and I intend to see what opportunities are available for me in Asia now.  So those of you who knew me as Pippa May of Savile Row I would like to introduce myself as Philippa Coates of Shanghai! 

This is my blog, it is a bit about me, a bit about our journey and a lot about tailoring. Thanks for reading and I hope you enjoy what follows.


Philippa Coates