The Shanghai Museum of Modern Art is a wonderful institute located just off the picturesque Peoples square. The museum hosts many interesting exhibits and has a vast and beautiful space to display the works. Recently an exhibition of Dior garments and history was hosted in Shanghai and I had the opportunity to visit this fantastic collection.
Seeing the original artwork was a joy to observe as the illustrations were simplistic but made the construction clear. Working with pencil on paper is a medium close to my heart and reflects my old fashioned and classic ways of working. There is so much more expression in a pencil line than the modern computer aided design can convey and the feminine curves are particularly well expressed in this organic drawing style.
I have always adored the Dior style as I believe it showcases the best features of a women's figure. The construction is exquisite and the design always reflects the beauty and proportions of the house style
The New Look was Dior's crowning achievement in 1947 and was dubbed the New Look by Camel Snow who at the time was Editor in chief of Harper's Bazaar. It is not only the design that gives these clothes the silhouette Dior is so famous for, the construction is key. Almost architectural in the creation padding and shaping is the application that allows the tailored appearance.
At this exhibition tailoresses from the French workshop were visiting to show the work included in the production of each piece. I spoke with these talented women and we discovered that many of the techniques were similar to those used on Savile Row. The materials require a finer touch and more delicate stitching and trimmings. The hand padding is key to the lapels of some of the incredible examples that were displayed within the exhibition.
Dior gowns are the epitome of glamour with the curves of a woman enhanced whilst draping the form in glamorous swags. The silks used are opulent, the cottons stiff and the colours bold. Internally the gowns may be corseted or padded to enhance the hourglass designs.The designs are eye catching and consistent to the story of the house style and continue to be timeless.
Obviously the tailoring drew my attention and the shapes and styles of the collections caught my eye. Details of the pieces I identified with and have applied to my own garments and those I have produced for others. My ethos on women's tailoring is that it should be feminine whilst being formal. There is a freedom of creativity and design in ladies wear that I am in awe of Dior's application.
After visiting this incredible collection of the past and modern works of the fashion house I was inspired to pay homage. So in true style I took my pencil and sketch pad and started to design a new tailored piece for myself. I wanted to use a bold red as in many of the jackets I had seen and create a take on the silhouette.
I chose to follow a design incorporating the wide sweeping lapels and curved seams so prominent in the Dior style. With feminine touches of a pleated skirted coat and bow embellishment. I will use some padding and shaping techniques when tailoring the coat to exaggerate my figure.
I am using a heavy barathea which will lend well to the curves I want to create. Many panels will allow the reduction from bust to waist to be smooth and give the definition of "The New Look" I may add some silk trim to soften the finished appearance but will observe the requirement of this during the fitting process.
Once the garment is in production I will write another post to keep you all updated and show off my designer inspired look. I have always appreciated The Dior look and hope to show my adoration in this new piece.
